Every fall, the same question comes up: how do I winterize my lawn mower properly? Whether you're putting your push mower in the shed until spring, storing your riding mower for the season, or thinking about selling used lawn equipment to upgrade, proper winterization isn't just maintenance—it's money in your pocket.

Here's the reality that catches most equipment owners off guard: gasoline starts breaking down in as little as 30 days. So how long can gas sit in a lawn mower before causing problems? Without treatment, that fuel left sitting in your carburetor turns into a varnish-like substance within 60-90 days. This gums up jets, clogs fuel lines, and can turn a reliable machine into an expensive paperweight. We see it every spring—people bringing in mowers that ran perfectly last fall, now completely seized up because of old gas in the lawn mower that went bad over winter.

This guide covers everything you need to know: whether to use fuel stabilizer for your lawn mower or drain it completely, how to store your lawn mower for winter, understanding what your equipment is actually worth (you might be surprised), and preparing it to sell for maximum value. We'll cover push mowers, riding mowers, string trimmers, snowblowers, and small tractors—plus insights about vintage equipment that could be worth more than you think.

Why Winterizing Your Lawn Mower Matters

Let's talk about what actually happens to your equipment when it sits idle. Understanding the science behind winter storage helps you appreciate why these steps aren't optional—they're essential for extending your lawn mower's life expectancy.

What Happens If You Don't Winterize Your Lawn Mower

Skip winterization and you're gambling with a rough start to spring or lengthy repairs. Here's what typically goes wrong when a lawn mower sits all winter without proper preparation:

Carburetor damage: Old gas leaves varnish deposits that clog tiny jets and passages. A carburetor rebuild or replacement costs $50-200.
Fuel system corrosion: Ethanol gas lawn mower problems are real—E10 fuel absorbs moisture that corrodes aluminum and rubber components.
Dead battery: A riding mower battery left connected loses charge and develops sulfation. Replacement: $40-100.
Seized engine: In worst cases, internal corrosion causes piston rings to stick. This can total the engine.
Premature wear: Dried-out grease and oil means metal-on-metal contact during spring startup, shortening how long your mower lasts.

The bottom line: 30 minutes of winterization prevents hundreds of dollars in spring repairs—and maintains your lawn mower resale value if you decide to sell.

The Fuel Problem: How Long Can Gas Sit in a Lawn Mower?

Modern gasoline contains up to 10% ethanol (E10), and that ethanol loves to absorb moisture from the air. Over time, this creates a process called phase separation, where the ethanol and water sink to the bottom of your tank while the remaining gasoline floats on top. That water-ethanol mixture at the bottom gets sucked into your carburetor first when you try to start the engine in spring.

The timeline for fuel breakdown:

30 days: Fuel begins losing volatility; harder starting
60 days: Varnish formation begins; old gas in lawn mower symptoms appear
90+ days: Significant gumming; carburetor cleaning likely needed
6+ months: Fuel essentially unusable; major cleaning required

Even worse, the gasoline itself oxidizes. Those volatile compounds that make fuel combustible break down, leaving behind gummy deposits that coat every surface they touch. Your carburetor's tiny jets and passages—some as small as a human hair—get clogged with this residue. The diaphragms and gaskets in your fuel system dry out and crack. This is why understanding fuel stabilizer for lawn mower storage is so important.

Pro Tip: Non-ethanol fuel (often sold as "recreational fuel" or "marine fuel") costs more but stores significantly longer and eliminates ethanol gas lawn mower problems entirely. If you're storing equipment long-term, it's worth the investment.

Beyond Fuel: Hidden Winter Storage Damage

Fuel isn't the only concern when you store your lawn mower for winter. Here's what else happens during storage:

Battery drain and sulfation: Lead-acid batteries naturally discharge over time. If they drop below a certain voltage, lead sulfate crystals form on the plates. These crystals harden over time and can permanently reduce battery capacity. A battery that sat all winter discharged might hold only 60-70% of its original charge—even after a full recharge.

Grease dries out: All those pivot points, bearings, and fittings on your equipment? The grease protecting them slowly hardens and loses its lubricating properties. Grease fittings should be greased before storage—people forget this, and metal-on-metal contact during spring startup causes wear that shortens component life.

Seals and gaskets deteriorate: Temperature fluctuations cause rubber and synthetic seals to expand and contract repeatedly. Without the protective film of oil or fuel, they dry out and crack.

Moisture accumulation: Condensation forms inside engines, transmissions, and hydraulic systems. This moisture promotes rust on internal components and can contaminate fluids.

Fuel Stabilizer for Lawn Mower: Complete Guide

The number one question about winterizing lawn equipment: should I drain the gas from my lawn mower for winter, or should I use fuel stabilizer? Both methods work, but they serve different situations. Here's everything you need to know about fuel stabilizer for lawn mower winter storage.

How Fuel Stabilizer Works

Fuel stabilizer is a chemical additive that prevents gasoline from oxidizing and breaking down. Quality stabilizers like Sta-Bil, Sea Foam, or Lucas contain antioxidants that stop the chain reaction causing fuel degradation, corrosion inhibitors that protect metal fuel system components, and detergents that help keep carburetors clean.

When properly used, fuel stabilizer for lawn mower storage can keep gasoline viable for 12-24 months—compared to just 30-60 days for untreated fuel.

Should I Drain Gas From Lawn Mower for Winter?

This is the great debate among equipment owners. Here's when each method makes sense:

Use Fuel Stabilizer When:

You'll definitely use the equipment again in spring
Storage period is 3-6 months
Equipment has complex fuel systems that are hard to drain completely
You want easy, first-pull startup in spring

Drain the Fuel (Run It Dry) When:

You might sell the equipment
Storage will exceed 6 months
You want a completely clean fuel system
Equipment has a simple, easy-to-drain fuel system

Method 1: Using Fuel Stabilizer (Recommended for Most Users)

Add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer to fresh gasoline (check the bottle—typically 1 oz per 2.5 gallons)
Fill the tank completely with this stabilized fuel mixture
Run the engine for 10-15 minutes to circulate stabilized fuel through the entire system, including the carburetor
Top off the tank if needed—a full tank minimizes air space where condensation forms
Store in a dry location away from direct sunlight

Pro Tip: Add stabilizer to fresh fuel, not old gas that's already degrading. Stabilizer prevents breakdown but can't reverse damage already done.

Method 2: Run the Tank Dry

Run the equipment until it stops from fuel starvation
Try to restart once or twice to burn off remaining fuel in the carburetor
For extra protection, remove the spark plug and add a splash of fresh motor oil to the cylinder
Pull the starter cord a few times to distribute the oil, then reinstall the plug

Important: Even after running dry, small amounts of fuel remain in the carburetor bowl. For long-term storage or if selling used lawn equipment, consider removing the bowl and cleaning it completely.

How to Winterize Riding Mower and Small Tractors

Larger equipment requires more attention, and the stakes are higher—a neglected riding mower or small tractor can easily need $500+ in repairs come spring. Understanding how to properly winterize your riding mower protects your investment and maintains resale value.

Fuel System for Riding Mowers

For riding mowers and tractors, fuel stabilizer is usually the preferred method. These machines have larger, more complex fuel systems that are harder to drain completely. Fill the tank with fresh, stabilized fuel and run it long enough to reach the carburetor or fuel injection system—at least 10-15 minutes of operation.

If your machine has a fuel shutoff valve, consider turning it off after running stabilized fuel through the system. This keeps the carburetor full of stabilized fuel while preventing any condensation in the tank from reaching the engine.

Battery Care—The Most Overlooked Step

Here's where most people fail when winterizing a riding mower. A battery left connected over winter will almost certainly be dead—or permanently damaged—by spring. This is why so many riding mowers won't start after winter storage.

Option A - Remove the battery: Store it in a heated space (batteries lose charge faster in cold). Place on wood or cardboard, not concrete.
Option B - Connect a battery maintainer: Also called a "float charger" “trickle charger”, or "smart charger," these devices sense battery voltage and provide just enough charge to maintain capacity without overcharging.

Either way, clean the battery terminals before storage. A mixture of baking soda and water neutralizes acid buildup, and a light coat of dielectric grease prevents future corrosion.

Pro Tip: A quality battery maintainer ($30-50) pays for itself by extending battery life 2-3x. Far cheaper than replacing batteries every spring.

Grease All Fittings—People Forget This

This is the step that separates equipment lasting 20 years from equipment wearing out in 5. Your riding mower or tractor has multiple grease fittings (also called "zerks") at pivot points throughout the machine:

Front axle pivot points
Spindle housings on the mower deck
Steering linkage connections
Wheel bearings (on some models)
PTO (power take-off) connections on tractors

Use a grease gun with general-purpose lithium grease and pump until you see fresh grease emerge. This purges moisture and contaminated grease while ensuring full protection for winter.

Complete Riding Mower Winterization Checklist

Check tire pressure. Tires slowly lose air over winter. Under-inflated tires develop flat spots. Consider putting the machine on blocks.
Change the oil and filter. Fresh oil removes acids and moisture that damage engine internals during storage.
Check transmission/hydrostatic fluid. Top off if needed and note if it's due for a change.
Clean the entire machine. Pressure wash the deck and frame, then dry thoroughly. Debris holds moisture against metal.
Sharpen or replace the blade. Do it now rather than spring when shops are backed up.
Cover with a breathable tarp. Avoid plastic sheeting, which traps moisture underneath.

How to Winterize Your Snowblower (End-of-Season)

Wait—winterize a snowblower? Yes! When the snow season ends in spring, your snowblower needs the same care as lawn equipment. Many people store their snowblower all summer without preparation, then wonder why their snowblower won't start after summer storage.

The process mirrors lawn mower winterization: use fuel stabilizer or run the tank dry, change the oil, grease all fittings, and store in a dry location. The same fuel breakdown that causes lawn mower engine problems affects snowblowers sitting all summer.

Pay special attention to the auger and impeller. Clean any remaining ice, salt, and debris. Lubricate the auger shaft and check shear pins. Inspect belts for wear and replace if cracked or frayed. This preparation means your snowblower fires up reliably when the first snow falls.

Pro Tip: If you're thinking about selling your snowblower, spring is actually a great time to list it. Buyers are thinking ahead and prices hold steady. Check the used snowblower for sale market in your area.

Lawn Mower Won't Start After Winter: Troubleshooting Guide

Spring arrives, you pull the starter cord, and... nothing. Your lawn mower won't start after winter storage. Before you panic, work through these common causes systematically.

Old Gas in Lawn Mower Symptoms

If you didn't winterize properly, old gas is the most likely culprit. Here's how to tell if bad fuel is your problem:

Engine cranks but won't fire
Starts momentarily then dies
Starts on starter fluid and also dies
Runs rough, surges, or lacks power
Fuel smells like varnish or has dark color
Visible residue or separation in fuel tank

How to Get Old Gas Out of Lawn Mower

If you suspect bad fuel, here's how to get old gas out of your lawn mower and restore operation:

Drain the fuel tank. Use a siphon pump or disconnect the fuel line. Dispose of old gas properly—many auto parts stores accept it.
Remove and clean the carburetor bowl. This is where most varnish accumulates. Spray with carburetor cleaner.
Clean or replace the fuel filter (if equipped).
Inspect fuel lines for cracks or soft spots. Replace if deteriorated.
Add fresh fuel with stabilizer and try starting.
If the carburetor is severely gummed, you may need a professional cleaning or rebuild. This is where repair costs start adding up—often $75-200 for carburetor work alone.

How to Clean a Lawn Mower Carburetor

Before paying for professional carburetor work, try cleaning it yourself. This is a straightforward job on most small engines.

Basic Carburetor Cleaning Steps:

Remove the air filter and air filter housing to access the carburetor
Shut off the fuel valve (if equipped) or clamp the fuel line
Remove the carburetor bowl (usually one bolt on the bottom)—catch any fuel that drains out
Inspect the bowl for rust, debris, or varnish deposits. Heavy buildup indicates fuel sat too long. Clean the bowl
Locate the main jet (brass fitting inside the carburetor) and carefully remove it
Spray carburetor cleaner through all passages and ports. Let it soak for a few minutes on stubborn deposits
Clear the main jet with compressed air. If clogged, use a single bristle from a wire brush—never use a drill bit or anything that could enlarge the orifice
Inspect the gaskets. Bowl gaskets often swell from fuel exposure. Pat them dry with paper towels and let them rest on the bench for a few hours. They may shrink back to size as they dry—or you'll need replacements
Reassemble and test. Add fresh fuel and see if it starts

Pro Tip: If you need replacement jets or a carburetor rebuild kit, spend the extra few dollars for OEM or quality aftermarket parts. Cheap kits usually come with poorly-sized jets that cause tuning problems that'll have you chasing issues for hours. The few extra dollars pay dividends immediately.

When to Stop and Get Help:

If cleaning doesn't restore performance, the carburetor body may be corroded or warped. At that point, a complete carburetor replacement often makes more sense than repeated rebuilds. Just like we previously discussed, look for a quality carburetor to save yourself the headaches.

How to Tell If Lawn Mower Carburetor Is Bad

Beyond fuel issues, a damaged carburetor causes persistent problems. Signs your carburetor may need replacement:

Black smoke from exhaust (running rich)
Backfiring or popping
Fuel leaking from carburetor body
Engine dies when blades engage (under load)
Cleaning doesn't improve performance

Other Spring Startup Issues

Dead battery (riding mowers): Try charging first. If it won't hold charge, battery replacement is needed. This is why winterizing riding mower batteries is critical.

Fouled spark plug: Remove and inspect. If wet with fuel, the carburetor is flooding. If black/sooty, engine ran rich. Clean or replace—spark plugs cost just $3-8.

Stale oil: Old oil loses viscosity. If you didn't change it before storage, do it now before running extensively.

Safety switch issues: Riding mowers have multiple safety interlocks (seat switch, blade engagement, brake). A faulty switch prevents starting.

Is It Worth Fixing an Old Lawn Mower?

At some point, you face the repair-or-replace decision. Consider replacing when:

Repair costs exceed 50% of replacement value
Multiple systems need work simultaneously
Engine has excessive hours or internal damage
Parts are discontinued or hard to find

Even non-running equipment has value. A "parts machine" with a good deck, transmission, or other components sells to DIYers who need spares. Don't just throw it away—list it on Tool Pile's Agricultural & Landscaping marketplace noting its condition. You might be surprised what someone will pay for parts.

The Hidden Value in Vintage Equipment

Before we discuss what your equipment is worth and how to sell it, let's discuss something that surprises many people: older equipment can be worth more than you think—sometimes more than newer models.

The Briggs & Stratton Flathead Legend

If you have older equipment with a Briggs & Stratton flathead (side-valve) engine, you might be sitting on something valuable. These engines—particularly the cast-iron sleeved models from the 1970s through early 1990s—have developed an almost cult following among small engine enthusiasts and equipment restorers.

Why? They're virtually indestructible. With proper maintenance, these engines regularly run for 2,000+ hours—some far more. They're simple to rebuild, parts remain available, and they have a reputation for reliability that modern overhead-valve engines haven't matched in many traditionalists' minds.

An old Snapper or Simplicity mower with a well-maintained Briggs flathead can command a premium from the right buyer—especially if it's a complete, running unit.

The Tecumseh Situation

Here's a market reality that creates opportunity: Tecumseh, once one of the largest small engine manufacturers in North America, ceased production in 2008. You cannot buy a new Tecumseh engine. This means the millions of Tecumseh-powered mowers, tillers, snowblowers, and other equipment in circulation are the only ones that will ever exist.

For equipment with Tecumseh engines—particularly their excellent Snow King engines used in snowblowers—this creates value. Enthusiasts seek running Tecumseh-powered equipment for backups or restoration projects. Even parts machines (non-running units kept for spares) have value.

The lesson: Don't assume your old equipment is worthless. A buyer who knows what they're looking at might see significant value in that "outdated" machine in your garage.

Other Collectible Equipment

Garden tractors from the 1960s-1980s (Wheel Horse, Cub Cadet, John Deere) often sell for more than modern equivalents
Gravely walk-behind tractors have a devoted following and command premium prices
Early Honda lawn equipment (especially HR21 series mowers) are highly sought after
Commercial-grade equipment from any era tends to hold value better than residential models

What Is My Tractor Worth? Equipment Valuation Guide

Now for the question everyone asks: "What is my tractor worth?" Or riding mower, or zero-turn—whatever you're selling. The honest answer: it depends on several factors, and you should research before pricing. Understanding lawn mower resale value helps you price competitively while maximizing return.

Factors That Determine Equipment Value

Condition is king. A well-maintained machine with service records is worth significantly more than a neglected one. Buyers want something freshened up, not a basket case.
Brand reputation matters. John Deere, Honda, and commercial brands (Scag, Exmark, Gravely) command premiums. The best used riding mower brands hold value longest.
Hours over age. For riding mowers and tractors, hours of operation matter more than years. How long do riding mowers last? A 10-year-old machine with 200 hours is worth more than a 5-year-old with 600 hours.
Complete and running. Equipment that starts and runs properly is worth dramatically more than "ran when parked" units.
Seasonality. Lawn equipment sells best in spring (March-May). Selling in November? Expect lower prices—or consider waiting.
Local market conditions. Areas with larger lots and longer growing seasons see higher prices.

How to Price Used Lawn Equipment

Before pricing, do your homework:

Check sold listings, not asking prices. On eBay, filter by "Sold Items" to see what people actually paid. Facebook Marketplace asking prices show what sellers hope to get, not market reality.
Search multiple platforms. Compare prices on ToolPile, Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, eBay, and specialized forums for your equipment type.
Be honest about condition. That "excellent" equipment you're selling? Compare it to actually excellent examples online. Most people overrate their own equipment.
Consider dealer trade-in values. Call and ask what they'd offer. That's your floor—private sales should exceed this.

Understanding Lawn Mower Depreciation

Like cars, lawn equipment depreciates, but the lawn mower depreciation rate varies by type. Budget push mowers lose value quickly—often 50% in the first year. Quality riding mowers depreciate more slowly, typically 15-20% annually in early years, then leveling off. Commercial equipment holds value best, often retaining 60-70% of value after five years with proper maintenance.

The key variable is condition. Well-maintained equipment with documented service history defies typical depreciation curves. This is why winterizing properly and keeping records directly impacts what your lawn mower is worth when you sell.

Selling Used Lawn Equipment: Preparation Guide

You've decided to sell. Whether it's a push mower, riding mower, lawn tractor, or zero-turn, here's how to present your equipment for maximum value.

Clean It—Really Clean It

This is the single most important thing you can do, and it's free. Clean equipment shows you cared for it. Dirty equipment makes buyers assume the worst about maintenance.

Pressure wash the entire machine, including the underside of the deck
Use degreaser on the engine and frame
Clean the air filter housing and engine shroud
Wipe down the seat and controls
Remove surface rust with a wire brush or rust remover
Consider touching up faded paint if it's in rough shape

Pro Tip: A few dollars of black spray paint on faded plastic components (handle grips, engine covers, wheel covers) dramatically improves appearance and perceived value.

Freshen the Fluids

Change the oil. Fresh oil makes a good impression when buyers check the dipstick (they will).
Add fresh fuel. Nobody wants to start a machine on year-old gas. Drain old fuel and add fresh.
Grease all fittings. Fresh grease at every zerk shows attention to maintenance.
Charge the battery. A machine that starts instantly impresses buyers. Clicking or slow cranking raises red flags.

Address Obvious Issues

Belt squealing? A new belt costs $20-40 but removes a major buyer concern.
Blade dull or damaged? Sharpen or replace. Dull blades signal neglect.
Tires low or cracked? Inflate properly. For severely cracked tires, disclose rather than hide.
Small leaks? Clean them up and be prepared to discuss. Minor seepage is normal on older equipment; active leaks are not.

Document Everything

Gather any documentation you have: original owner's manual, service records or receipts, record of hours (if available), and spare parts, extra blades, or attachments.

When creating your listing, be honest and detailed. Include the model number, engine specifications, hours of use, known issues, and maintenance performed. Good listings attract serious buyers; vague listings attract low-ballers and no-shows.

Final Tips for Selling Success

Take quality photos. Clean equipment, good lighting, multiple angles. Include close-ups of the engine, controls, and any wear areas.
Video of it running is powerful. A short video showing cold start, smooth running, and blade engagement is worth more than any description.
Price fairly but firmly. Research-based pricing attracts serious buyers. Expect negotiation, but don't let low-ballers waste your time.
Be available for demonstrations. Serious buyers want to see equipment run. Accommodate their schedules when possible.
Cash on pickup. Don't ship to strangers or accept payment plans from unknown buyers.
Choose the right platform. Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist have scam issues. Specialized marketplaces connect you with serious buyers who understand equipment value.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long can gas sit in a lawn mower?

Untreated gasoline begins degrading within 30 days and causes starting problems within 60-90 days. With quality fuel stabilizer, gas can remain viable for 12-24 months. Always use fresh, stabilized fuel for winter storage.

Should I drain gas from my lawn mower for winter or use stabilizer?

For most users, fuel stabilizer is easier and more effective. Use stabilizer if you'll use the equipment in spring and want easy startup. Run it dry if you might sell the equipment or storage exceeds 6 months.

What is my riding mower worth?

Value depends on brand, condition, hours, and whether it's running. Check eBay sold listings (not asking prices) for comparable models. Well-maintained John Deere, Honda, and commercial brands hold value best. Expect 15-20% annual depreciation on quality machines.

How long do riding mowers last?

With proper maintenance, residential riding mowers last 1,000-1,500 hours. Commercial mowers can exceed 2,000-3,000 hours. Time matters less than hours—a 15-year-old mower with 400 hours may have more life left than a 5-year-old with 800 hours.

Why won't my lawn mower start after winter?

The most common cause is old, degraded fuel gumming the carburetor. Other causes include dead batteries (riding mowers), fouled spark plugs, or stale oil. Drain old gas, clean or replace the carburetor, and add fresh fuel as a first step.

Is it worth fixing an old lawn mower?

Generally yes if repair costs are under 50% of replacement value. However, consider selling as-is if multiple systems need work, the engine has excessive hours, or parts are discontinued. Even non-running equipment has value to DIYers needing parts.

Ready to Sell Your Equipment?

Whether you're winterizing equipment to use next season or preparing to sell, the same principle applies: well-maintained equipment holds its value and performs reliably. Take the time now to do it right, and you'll thank yourself later—either with a machine that starts on the first pull in spring, or with extra cash from a buyer who recognized the value of properly cared-for equipment.

When you're ready to list your used riding mower for sale, used lawn tractor, or any other equipment, consider Tool Pile—a marketplace built specifically for equipment buyers and sellers in the NY, NJ, and CT area. Our buyers appreciate well-maintained equipment and understand its value, which means you're more likely to connect with serious buyers who recognize quality when they see it.

Have questions about winterizing your specific equipment or wondering what your mower is worth? Drop us a line—we're always happy to help fellow equipment owners keep their machines running right.

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How to Winterize Your Lawn Mower and Get Top Dollar When You Sell